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Pet Care Articles & Grooming Tips

Keeping Your Pets Healthy

why My rabbit is limping?

2/21/2026

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Limping in rabbits can be caused by a range of issues, from minor injuries to more serious medical conditions. Because rabbits often hide pain, any noticeable limp should be taken seriously and checked by a vet.

Common Causes of Limping in Rabbits

  • Injuries: Fractures, sprains, or dislocations from falls or rough landings.
 
  • Arthritis: Older rabbits may develop joint stiffness and pain.
 
  • Abscesses or infections: Swelling in the legs or feet can make movement painful.
 
  • Bumblefoot (pododermatitis): Inflammation or sores on the feet, often from rough or dirty surfaces.
 
  • Dental problems: Overgrown teeth can cause abscesses that affect mobility.
 
  • Parasites or obesity: Can put strain on joints and muscles.

When to Seek Immediate Vet Care

  • Limping persists for more than a day.
 
  • Swelling, heat, or visible wounds on the leg or foot.
 
  • Rabbit refuses to put weight on the limb.
 
  • Loss of appetite or lethargy accompanies the limp.

What You Can Do at Home (While Awaiting Vet Care)

  • Keep your rabbit in a safe, soft, clean environment to prevent further injury.
 
  • Limit jumping or climbing until the cause is identified.
 
  • Observe closely for changes in appetite, posture, or behavior.
 
  • Do not attempt to splint or medicate without veterinary guidance.

Bottom line 

Limping in rabbits can stem from simple injuries or serious health problems. Because rabbits deteriorate quickly if untreated, the safest step is to have your rabbit examined by an exotic‑experienced veterinarian as soon as possible.
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Rabbit Loud breathing That SoundS Like "Flu"

2/20/2026

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Loud breathing in rabbits — especially when it sounds like a “flu” — is often a sign of respiratory distress and should be taken seriously. Rabbits are prone to respiratory infections and other conditions that can quickly become dangerous if untreated.

Common Causes of Loud Breathing in Rabbits

  • Respiratory infections (“snuffles”): Often caused by bacteria such as Pasteurella multocida. Symptoms include nasal discharge, sneezing, and noisy breathing.

  • Allergies or irritants: Dusty hay, smoke, or strong scents can irritate the airways.

  • Dental problems: Overgrown teeth or abscesses can press on nasal passages, leading to noisy breathing.

  • Pneumonia or serious lung issues: More severe infections can cause labored breathing, lethargy, and loss of appetite.

  • Obstructions: Foreign material or swelling in the nasal passages may block airflow.

Warning Signs That Require Immediate Vet Attention

  • Persistent loud breathing or wheezing

  • Nasal discharge (clear, white, or yellow)

  • Sneezing or coughing

  • Loss of appetite or reduced drinking

  • Lethargy or unusual posture (sitting hunched, difficulty moving)

What You Can Do Right Away

  • Check the environment: Remove dust, smoke, or strong odors.

  • Monitor closely: Note changes in appetite, activity, or discharge.

  • Do not delay veterinary care: Rabbits hide illness well, and respiratory problems can worsen quickly.

Bottom line

Loud, flu‑like breathing in rabbits is not normal and often signals infection or another health issue. Because rabbits can deteriorate rapidly, the safest step is to have your rabbit examined by a veterinarian as soon as possible.
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Rabbit losing fur under Chin

12/31/2025

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Fur loss under a rabbit’s chin may result from routine shedding, parasites, infections, or other health concerns. While seasonal shedding is normal, ongoing bald spots or irritation should be evaluated by a veterinarian.

Possible Causes of Chin Fur Loss

  • Seasonal shedding: Rabbits naturally shed their coats once or twice a year, and uneven patches may appear temporarily as new fur grows in.
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  • Parasites: Mites or fleas can trigger itching, scratching, and bald spots, often requiring veterinary treatment.

  • Skin infections: Bacterial or fungal problems may cause fur loss, redness, or scabbing.

  • Dental issues: Overgrown teeth or dental abscesses can lead to drooling, which irritates the chin and results in fur loss.

  • Behavioral factors: Stress or excessive grooming may create localized bald patches.

  • Environmental conditions: Damp or dirty bedding can irritate the skin and contribute to hair loss.

Signs That Require Veterinary Care

  • Fur loss accompanied by redness, swelling, or discharge.

  • Drooling, reduced appetite, or noticeable weight loss.

  • Bald patches that fail to regrow after normal shedding.

  • Persistent itching or visible discomfort.

Immediate Actions You Can Take

  • Review diet and teeth: Ensure hay is the main food source and teeth are not overgrown.

  • Keep the environment clean: Maintain dry, hygienic bedding to prevent irritation.

  • Monitor carefully: Track fur regrowth and watch for worsening symptoms.

  • Seek veterinary advice: Especially if drooling, swelling, or ongoing baldness is present.

Key Takeaway

Fur loss under a rabbit’s chin may be harmless shedding, but it can also signal parasites, infection, or dental problems. If bald patches persist or are paired with other symptoms, a vet visit is the safest course of action.
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Rabbit Chewing and biting on their own fur

12/18/2025

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Rabbits often bite their own fur due to grooming, stress, or health concerns. While light nibbling is normal, excessive chewing may indicate an issue that requires attention.

Why Rabbit Chew or Bite Their Fur


  • Routine grooming: Rabbits are naturally thorough cleaners and may nibble at their fur to remove dirt or loose hairs.

  • Barbering behavior: Sometimes rabbits chew their own fur—or that of another rabbit—as a way to show dominance or affection.

  • Stress or boredom: Limited space, lack of stimulation, or environmental changes can trigger excessive grooming.

  • Skin irritation: Conditions like parasites, mites, or allergies may cause itching, leading rabbits to bite their fur.

  • Dietary issues: An unbalanced diet can weaken coat health, prompting rabbits to chew their fur more frequently.

  • Health problems: Pain or discomfort from internal illnesses may appear as repeated or excessive grooming.

​Symptoms of Concern

  • Visible bald spots developing on the body

  • Skin damage or sores caused by repeated biting

  • Over‑grooming that goes beyond normal cleaning habits

  • Changes in behavior, such as increased irritability or social withdrawal

Helpful Measures

  • Inspect for parasites: Watch for signs of mites or fleas and consult a veterinarian if you suspect them.

  • Enhance enrichment: Offer toys, tunnels, and safe chew items to keep your rabbit engaged and prevent boredom.

  • Evaluate diet: Make hay the primary food source, supplemented with balanced pellets and fresh greens.

  • Minimize stress: Maintain a calm, spacious, and consistent environment for your rabbit’s well‑being.
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  • Consult a vet: If fur biting continues or causes injury, professional care can help identify and treat underlying issues.

Essential Insight
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While occasional fur chewing is natural, excessive biting can point to underlying problems. Regularly monitoring your rabbit’s surroundings, nutrition, and overall health, along with timely vet visits, is the best way to protect them.
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Rabbit head tilt

12/18/2025

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When a rabbit develops a head tilt—sometimes referred to as torticollis or “wry neck”—it often indicates an underlying health problem that requires veterinary care.

Primary Reasons

  • E. cuniculi parasite: A microscopic parasite that can affect the brain and nervous system.

  • Inner ear infection: A bacterial infection in the inner ear can interfere with balance.

  • Abscesses near the ear or jaw: Infection-related pressure can interfere with nerve function.

  • Ear mites or foreign objects: Equilibrium may be disrupted by irritation or inflammation.

  • Neurological issues or trauma: Rare but plausible factors.

Signals to Monitor

  • Continuous tilt toward one side

  • Difficulty maintaining balance or rolling

  • Rapid eye movements (nystagmus)

  • Walking or standing difficulty

  • Reduced appetite or grooming

Actions for Care

  • Seek veterinary care promptly: Head tilt is rarely minor and often requires treatment.

  • Offer practical support: Protect your rabbit from falls, provide water, and place food within easy reach.

  • Stay calm: Some rabbits recover fully, while others adapt to living with a permanent tilt.
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A Rabbit holding one ear up and one ear down

12/18/2025

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Rabbits occasionally position one ear up while the other droops; this can be natural, though sometimes it signals a concern.

Common Explainations
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  • Breed traits: It’s common for some rabbits—especially lops and mixed breeds—to have one ear standing and the other flopping.

  • ​Relaxed posture: Rabbits sometimes let one ear droop when they’re calm or resting.

  • Listening behaviour: Rabbits can control each ear separately to pick up sounds from different directions, so having one ear up and one down often just means they’re alert.

Possible Health Concerns

  • Ear infection: Swelling or pain in one ear may cause it to droop.

  • Ear mites: Parasite irritation may cause a rabbit to rely more on one ear.

  • Injury or trauma: Ear cartilage or muscle damage can cause the ear to droop instead of staying upright.

  • Neurological issues: In rare cases, head tilt or balance problems can affect ear position.

Suggested Response

  • Observe behaviour: If your rabbit seems otherwise healthy, eats well, and shows no distress, it may just be normal ear movement.

  • Check for symptoms: Look for scratching, discharge, swelling, or head tilt.

  • Veterinary check: A rabbit with a newly drooping ear, persistent droop, or other illness signs should be examined.
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Heavy breathing in rabbits

12/14/2025

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Rabbits may breathe rapidly after activity or stress, which is usually harmless. If the breathing continues while resting or looks strained, it could indicate illness and requires prompt veterinary attention.

Underlying Factors Behind Heavy Breathing

  • Overheating: Rabbits are vulnerable to high temperatures and may pant or breathe heavily when too warm.

  • Anxiety or stress: Sudden sounds, physical handling, or unfamiliar surroundings may cause faster breathing.

  • Respiratory disease: Rabbits affected by pneumonia or snuffles can show signs of labored breathing and nasal discharge.

  • Heart issues: Rabbits with cardiac disease may struggle to breathe and appear lethargic.

  • Underlying illness or pain: Because rabbits instinctively mask sickness, unusual breathing can be an early indicator of concern.

Recommended Actions

  • Assess surroundings: Make sure your rabbit stays cool, relaxed, and free from heat or stress.

  • Check for symptoms: Notice any discharge from the nose, lack of energy, poor eating, or odd posture.

  • Monitor breathing rate: A resting rabbit with over 60 breaths per minute may indicate a problem.

  • Consult a veterinarian promptly: Persistent, labored, or symptom‑linked heavy breathing requires immediate attention from an pet specialist.

Why It’s Significant
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Because rabbits naturally conceal signs of illness, heavy breathing may be one of the rare outward indicators of trouble. Acting quickly can determine whether it remains a minor concern or escalates into a serious, life‑threatening problem.
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LUmps And growths in rabbits

12/14/2025

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Any lump or growth found on a rabbit—whether from an abscess, cyst, benign swelling, or a possible tumor—should always be examined by a veterinarian, as early diagnosis is essential for proper treatment and long‑term health.

5 Common Causes of Lumps in Rabbits

  • Abscesses: Often caused by bacterial infections; filled with pus and may feel firm under the skin.

  • Cysts: Fluid‑filled sacs that can develop in various tissues; usually benign but may grow.

  • Lipomas: Non‑cancerous fatty tumors; can become large enough to affect mobility.

  • Cancerous growths: Malignant tumors such as carcinomas or sarcomas; early diagnosis is critical for treatment.

  • Myxomas: Rare but serious viral‑related tumors seen in rabbits.

What You Should Do
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  • Seek veterinary care: Any lump should be examined promptly to determine the cause.

  • Never attempt home treatment: Abscesses and tumors require professional diagnosis and care.

  • Monitor changes: Note size, texture, and whether the lump grows or causes discomfort.

  • Check overall health: Watch for weight loss, lethargy, or changes in appetite, which may signal a serious issue.

Why It Matters
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Rabbits often hide illness until it becomes advanced. A lump could be harmless, but it might also indicate a serious condition requiring surgery or medical treatment. Through consistent Professional Rabbit Grooming, groomers can spot any abnormalities early and advise the owner on the appropriate steps to take.
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How To properly introduce And bond a new rabbit to an existing one?

12/13/2025

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Introducing a new rabbit to an existing companion requires patience, careful planning, and a gradual bonding process. Rabbits are territorial, so rushing introductions can lead to fights or long‑term stress. 

Best Ways To Bond Rabbits

  • Prepare both rabbits: Ensure they are spayed/neutered, and settled in their own spaces before meeting. Wait at least 4–6 weeks after surgery before introductions.

  • Health check: Make sure both rabbits are healthy and parasite‑free before meeting.

  • Start with separate housing: Keep them in different enclosures side by side where they can see and smell each other but not touch.
 
  • Neutral territory: Introduce them in a space neither rabbit considers their own territory, such as a playpen.
 
  • Begin with short sessions: Allow brief, supervised interactions where they can sniff and explore each other.
 
  • Observe body language: Positive signs include grooming, lying near each other, or relaxed posture. Negative signs include lunging, chasing, or biting.
   
  • Increase bonding time: Extend sessions as they become more comfortable, moving toward shared playtime.
 
  • Create shared space: Once they show consistent positive behaviour, allow them to live together in a neutral, freshly cleaned enclosure.
 
  • Patience: Bonding can take a couple of days to weeks, forcing it too quickly may cause long‑term aggression.

Things To Take Note

  • Never ever place the new rabbit directly into the existing rabbit’s cage, territorial aggression is unpreventable.
 
  • Bonding is easier if both rabbits are neutered/spayed, as hormones drive aggression.
 
  • If fights break out, separate them immediately and try again later with shorter, calmer sessions.

  • Some rabbits can never be fully bonded. If it happens, someone has to supervise the playtime.
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rabbit soft stool

12/13/2025

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Rabbit smelly soft poop is usually caused by digestive upset, infections, or poor diet, and it can be very serious if not addressed quickly. It’s important to distinguish whether it’s true diarrhea or excess cecotropes (the special nutrient‑rich droppings rabbits normally re‑eat).

7 Common Causes of Diarrhea in Rabbits

  • Dental problems: Painful or misaligned teeth can reduce hay intake, leading to poor digestion and loose stools.
 
  • Dietary imbalance: Too many pellets, fruits, or sugary treats and not enough hay can upset the gut.
 
  • Diet changes: Switching foods too quickly can disrupt the delicate balance of gut bacteria.
 
  • Infections: Bacterial, viral, or parasitic infections can cause watery droppings and loss of appetite.
 
  • Gastrointestinal stasis: A slowdown of the digestive system often leads to abnormal droppings and diarrhea.
 
  • Psychological distress: Loud noises, new environments, or unfamiliar animals can trigger digestive upset.
 
  • Poor hay quality: Dusty, moldy, or unappealing hay may reduce fiber intake, leading to diarrhea.

Why Is It Serious

Diarrhea in rabbits is not like in other pets—it can quickly become life‑threatening. Rabbits rely on constant fiber intake to keep their gut moving. Without it, they risk dehydration, nutrient loss, and gastrointestinal stasis, which requires urgent veterinary care.

Guidelines for Care

  • Ensure your rabbit have access to unlimited fresh hay (timothy, orchard grass, or meadow).
 
  • Limit pellets and treats so hay remains the main food source.
 
  • Introduce new foods slow and gradually to avoid shocking the digestive system.
 
  • Keep stress low by maintaining a calm and consistent environment.
 
  • Seek veterinary help immediately if diarrhea is watery, persistent, or accompanied by lethargy, pain, or reduced droppings.
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my rabbit is eating more pellets than hay

12/13/2025

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If your rabbit is eating mostly or only pellets and ignoring hay or fresh greens, that’s a concern because hay should make up the majority of their diet. Pellets are meant to be a supplement, not the main food source. A pellet‑only diet can lead to dental problems, obesity, and digestive issues over time.

Why Rabbits May Eat Only Pellets?

  • Preference for taste: Pellets are richer and more palatable than hay, so rabbits may choose them first.
 
  • Overfeeding pellets: If too many are offered, rabbits fill up and lose interest in hay.
 
  • Hay quality: Dusty, old, or unappealing hay may discourage eating.
 
  • Dental discomfort: Painful teeth can make chewing hay difficult, while pellets are easier to eat.
 
  • Lack of variety: Rabbits may get bored if only one type of hay is offered.

What You Can Do

  • Limit pellet portions: Offer about 1–2 tablespoons per kilogram of body weight daily.
 
  • Provide unlimited hay: Fresh timothy, orchard grass, or meadow hay should always be available.
 
  • Make hay appealing: Mix different hay types, or stuff hay into toys and tunnels to encourage foraging.
 
  • Reduce treats: Cut back on fruits or extras so hay becomes the main food source.
 
  • Vet check: If refusal continues, have your rabbit’s teeth examined to rule out dental issues.

Pellet Reduction Plan

      Step 1: Assess Current Intake
  • Note how much pellet your rabbit currently eats in a day.
  • Weigh or measure the portion so you can reduce it gradually.

      Step 2: Introduce Hay Variety
  • Offer different types of hay (timothy, orchard grass, meadow, oat).
  • Place hay in multiple spots—bowls, racks, or stuffed into toys—to make it more engaging.

      Step 3: Gradual Pellet Cutback
  • Reduce pellet portions by 10–15% each week.
  • Replace the missing portion with fresh hay so your rabbit always has food available.

      Step 4: Limit Treats and Extras
  • Keep fruits and veggies minimal during the transition.
  • This ensures your rabbit doesn’t fill up on richer foods instead of hay.

      Step 5: Encourage Foraging
  • Hide hay in tunnels, cardboard rolls, or dig boxes.
  • Rabbits love to “work” for food, which makes hay more appealing.

      Step 6: Monitor Health
  • Check droppings daily—healthy droppings mean digestion is working well.
  • Watch for weight loss, lethargy, or refusal to eat, and seek a vet if problems arise.

      Step 7: Maintain Balance
  • Aim for a diet of 80% hay, 15% fresh greens, and 5% pellets/treats.
  • Once your rabbit is eating hay consistently, keep pellets as a small supplement only.

When To Seek Professional Help

If your rabbit refuses hay for more than 24 hours, or shows signs of small droppings, lethargy, or weight loss, contact a vet immediately. Hay is essential for keeping their digestive system moving and their teeth healthy.
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how to stop rabbit destructive chewing?

12/13/2025

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Nobody can stop a rabbit from chewing entirely—it’s a natural behavior—but you can redirect it to safe options and protect your home. The key is providing plenty of chew toys, rabbit‑proofing your space, and ensuring your rabbit’s diet and environment meet their needs. Rabbits chew because their teeth grow continuously and need to be worn down.

Ways To Stop Destructive Chewing

  • Safe chewing toys: Offer untreated wooden blocks, willow sticks, cardboard tunnels, or hay cubes to satisfy natural chewing instincts without damaging your home.

  • Rabbit‑proof your living space: Cover electrical wires with protective tubing, block access to baseboards, and shield furniture edges that may tempt chewing.

  • Feed a hay‑rich diet: Ensure plenty of hay, as constant chewing helps wear down teeth naturally and reduces inappropriate chewing.

  • Create a chew‑friendly environment: Set up an area with toys, tunnels, and safe materials to give your rabbit a designated outlet.

  • Prevent boredom: Provide enrichment such as digging boxes, foraging toys, or supervised playtime to keep your rabbit engaged.
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  • Use safe deterrents sparingly: Apply safe, bitter sprays to areas like furniture, door edges only as a last resolution.

If your rabbit continues to chew excessively even after provided with plenty of toys and hay, this behaviour could indicate underlying stress, dental problems, or insufficient mental stimulation. In situations like these, arranging a veterinary examination is advisable to rule out any medical conditions that may be contributing to the issue.
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Rabbit treats that are actually safe & Healthy

12/13/2025

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Rabbits can safely enjoy small amounts of fresh fruits, leafy greens, and hay‑based snacks. However, sugary, processed, or high‑carbohydrate foods should be avoided, as they can disrupt their sensitive digestion.

Types of Healthy Treat for Rabbits

  • Safe fruit options include apples (without seeds), bananas, strawberries, blueberries, pears, and melon. These should be given sparingly due to their sugar content, making them occasional treats instead of daily food.
 
  • Leafy greens such as parsley, cilantro, basil, mint, and dill are safe, tasty choices that can be offered regularly in a rabbit’s treat rotation.
 
  • Vegetables such as carrot slices, bell peppers, and broccoli leaves are safe, but should be offered sparingly to maintain digestive balance.
 
  • Hay‑based options, including compressed cubes or specialized commercial snacks like Oxbow, provide a safe and healthy way to reward your rabbit.
 
  • Occasional homemade treats like dried herbs or dehydrated vegetables can provide variety without straying from a rabbit‑friendly diet.

Unsafe Treats
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  • Sugary foods: Cookies, chocolate, or anything processed.
 
  • High‑carb foods: Bread, crackers, rice, or cereal.
 
  • Toxic foods: Onions, garlic, avocado, and potato.

Treats Rule

  • Treats should make up no more than 5% of a rabbit’s diet.
 
  • Their main nutrition must come from hay (about 80%), with fresh greens and pellets making up the rest.
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  • Limit treats to about one tablespoon per day, depending on the rabbit’s size.
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My Rabbit does not want to eat hay

12/12/2025

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A rabbit refusing hay is a serious concern, since hay should make up about 80% of their diet and is essential for both dental and digestive health. When a rabbit stops eating hay, it often signals an underlying issue that needs attention.

5 Reasons Rabbit May Not Eat Hay

  • Dental problems: Rabbits’ teeth grow continuously; misalignment or overgrowth makes chewing hay painful and discourages eating.

  • Illness or discomfort: Conditions like gastrointestinal stasis, infections, or other internal health issues reduce appetite.

  • Poor hay quality: Dusty, old, moldy, or unappealing hay in texture or smell may cause refusal.

  • Preference for richer foods: Pellets, fruits, or treats are more palatable, leading rabbits to ignore hay.

  • Stress or environmental changes: New surroundings, loud noises, or unfamiliar animals can disrupt eating habits.

What You Can Do

  • Check teeth with a vet: Rule out dental disease, as untreated issues can quickly worsen.

  • Offer variety: Try timothy, orchard grass, meadow, or oat hay to encourage exploration of different textures and flavors.

  • Limit pellets and treats: Prevent rabbits from filling up on richer foods so hay remains their main diet.

  • Keep hay fresh: Store properly in a cool, dry place and replace daily to maintain smell and taste.

  • Make hay engaging: Stuff hay into toys, tunnels, or cardboard rolls to stimulate natural foraging instincts.

When to See a Vet

  • Refusal for more than 24 hours: Seek veterinary care immediately to prevent serious digestive problems.

  • Small or absent droppings: A clear sign of gastrointestinal stasis, which is potentially life‑threatening.

  • Signs of pain, lethargy, or weight loss: Professional help is essential, as these indicate underlying medical issues.
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My Rabbit is not eating Help!

12/12/2025

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A rabbit that refuse to eat is a serious warning sign. Rabbits have very sensitive digestive systems unlike most pets, even a short period of not eating can become life-threatening.

6 Common Reasons Rabbits Stop Eating

  • Gastrointestinal stasis (GI stasis): The gut slows or stops moving, often triggered by stress, pain, or poor diet.

  • Dental problems: Overgrown teeth or abscesses make chewing painful.

  • Pain or illness: Issues like urinary tract infections, respiratory disease, or injuries can reduce appetite.

  • Dietary issues: Sudden changes in food, lack of fiber (hay), or spoiled food can cause refusal.

  • Stress: Environmental changes, loud noises, or new animals may lead to reduced eating.

  • Blockages: Hairballs or foreign objects can obstruct the digestive tract.

What You Should Do Immediately

  • Seek veterinary care quickly: If your rabbit hasn’t eaten for 12–24 hours, it’s an emergency.

  • Offer favorite foods: Fresh hay, leafy greens, or small treats may encourage eating.

  • Check teeth and droppings: Look for signs of dental pain or reduced stool output.

  • Keep them hydrated: Encourage water intake; dehydration worsens GI stasis.

  • Reduce stress: Keep the environment calm and familiar.
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Why is my rabbit tearing?

12/12/2025

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This can be a pretty common problem seen on bunnies. Watery eyes (tearing) can be caused by anything from mild irritation to more serious health issues. If it doesn’t clear up quickly or get worsen, a visit to the vet is strongly recommended.

Common Causes Of Rabbit Tearing
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  • Blocked tear ducts: Rabbits have delicate tear ducts that can easily become inflamed or obstructed.
 
  • Eye infection: Bacterial or fungal infections are common and can worsen if untreated.
 
  • Dental problem: Overgrown teeth can press on tear ducts, leading to persistent watery eyes.
 
  • Environmental irritants: Dust, hay particles, or allergens can temporarily irritate the eyes.
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  • Injuries: Scratches or trauma to the eye may cause tearing.

  • Underlying illness: Chronic conditions like respiratory infections or systemic disease can sometimes show up as eye discharge.

What You Can Do 

  • Clean the eye area: Use a soft cotton pad dampened with warm water to wipe away discharge.
 
  • Reduce dust: Switch to less dusty hay and keep bedding clean.
 
  • Check environment: Avoid smoke, perfumes, or strong cleaning chemicals near your rabbit.
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  • Monitor diet: Ensure plenty of fresh hay, as dental issues often cause tearing.

When to Seek Immediate Vet Help
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  • Persistent tearing beyond 1–2 days.
 
  • Signs of pain (pawing at the eye, squinting).
 
  • Redness, swelling, or pus.
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  • Loss of appetite or changes in behavior.
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Help! My Rabbit Is Peeing And Pooping Everywhere In The House.

9/1/2019

19 Comments

 
Help! My Rabbit Is Peeing And Pooping Everywhere In The House.
So why do they pee or poop like nobody’s business :) ?

This is their way of marking territory. In order to stop this behaviour, you may consider spaying or neutering them. There are other benefits for this, rabbits can live longer and healthier as the risk of cancer and UTI(Urinary Tract Infections) are greatly reduced. Rabbits tend to become calmer and easier to manage after being spayed or neutered as well.

Some spayed or neutered rabbits may continue to mark their territory with their poop outside their litter box, you shouldn’t get alarmed as it’s quite normal for them to do so. There are times they do it on purpose to show you who is the boss:)

If your rabbit is already litter box trained from young and suddenly you notice he/she starts peeing out of the box, it could be a sign that he/she is unwell due to UTI, kidney or bladder stone etc. Bring them to the vet to examine immediately.

Generally, rabbits are very fastidious animals. They are perfect indoor pets if you litter-box trained them correctly. Sometimes they may need professional grooming as their bottom gets stuck with poop and stained with pee. Mobile Rabbit Grooming Services is the best way to have them cleaned.
By Sylvester (The Precious Pets Care Services)
19 Comments

Bunny Behaviour

8/15/2019

5 Comments

 
Bunny Behaviour
If you are already the owner of a rabbit or two, you know how fun and full of personality they can be. But it's hard to know what they are thinking or feeling since rabbits can be hard to read and have many different ways of expressing themselves.
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Here's some insight into the language of bunnies:


Fish Flop ("Life is good"): When a rabbit dramatically gets into resting position by suddenly 'flopping' onto their side. If your bunny fish flops, it means that he is relaxed and ready to nap. Fish flops tend to look like a sudden and dramatic death, but there's no need to be concerned.

Binky ("I'm excited about life!"): An energetic movement where a rabbit hops up in the air, kicks out his legs and perhaps a little twist. If your rabbit binkies, it means that he is happy, excited and probably has a lot of energy.

Grunting ("Back off!" or "Leave me alone!"): Sometimes accompanied by a lunge or a thump, your bun is letting you know his disapproval of your actions.

Honking ("Hey, baby"): Often accompanied with circling; it's part of the courting process.

Circling ("Let's get married and have babies"): Simply put, this is courting behavior.

Mounting ("Let's make those babies now" or "I'm in charge here!"): Depending on the situation, this is done for domination or simply because the mounter wants to mate.

Teeth Clicking or Soft Teeth Grinding ("That feels good and makes me happy"): Typically done when being pet in a way that pleases your bunny.

LOUD Teeth Grinding ("I'm in severe pain"): Something is very wrong; time to get bunny to your bunny vet immediately.

Chinning ("MINE"): Kind of like a cat will rub its face on people or objects, this is your bunny's way of 'claiming' things...or you

Back Kicking ("You're dead to me"): Flicking both back legs out as if kicking dirt onto you while hopping away. This is pretty much the equivalent of your bunny giving you the finger. Or kicking dirt at you.

Licking ("I love and trust you" or "You're filthy, let me clean you"): Licking is either done out of affection or for grooming.

Nose-nudging ("Pay attention to me" or "Get out of my way"): May be a request for pets or he wants you to get out of his way.

Pulling out fur ("I must prepare a nest" or "Something is wrong"): Unaltered females do this when they go into heat. They pull fur from their dewlap (the extra fat under their chin, I call it a 'built-in pillow') when they are ready to start nesting for babies. Unaltered females will do this whether they are pregnant or not. To ensure your bunny has a long, healthy life, it is important to get them neutered or spayed. If your bunny is pulling fur out that is not for this purpose, take him to a rabbit savvy vet in your area.

Nipping ("Pay attention to me NOW" or "Stop that"): This may be used as a warning, a demand for attention or sometimes during grooming.

Spraying ("This is my territory"): Typically done by unaltered rabbits, or sometimes done when in a new environment, especially one with other pets.

Thumping ("The British are coming!" or "Leave me alone"): One solid thump that may happen in intervals. This means that your bunny hears, smells or sees something that he feels is a threat, so he is letting everyone know there is a danger afoot. Or he may thump to show displeasure with you.

Loafing ("I'm just resting, but can take off at a second's notice" or "I'm uncomfortable"): Your rabbit looks like a nicely rounded loaf of bread when sitting in this position.

Ears Back: ("I'm not listening" or "I don't like that"): You should be able to tell if your rabbit is tense or relaxed when his ears are in this position. If he is on the offense and tense with ears back, give your rabbit some space to cool down.

Ears Up ("I'm 100% listening"): Your bunny is alert and in-tune to whatever it is he is listening to.

One ear back, one forward ("I'm may or may not be listening"): Your bunny is pretty much indifferent when his ears are in this position.

Tail wagging ("You can't make me!" or "I'm going to attack!"): Typically signifies defiance and sometimes done right before a spray. This may also mean your rabbit is feeling aggressive or 'frisky'.

Upright tail ("I'm excited!" or "Let's play!"): Your bun is happy/excited and ready to play!

Lowering head ("Groom me"): The dominant rabbit will lower his or her head to another rabbit, demanding to be groomed. Sometimes this is a power struggle of both rabbits lowering their head to the other, wanting to be groomed/loved. This is also a sign of submission.

Playing ("weeeee!"): Rabbits love to play by tossing objects around, chasing one another, or playing hide & seek.

Lunging ("I feel threatened and must defend myself"): This sometimes happens when you are reaching into your bunny's living space, or doing something that makes him feel unsafe. One way to help ease your bunny's fears, is to put your hand on his head and talk gently to him as you do what you need to do in his space. Rabbits typically don't like their stuff moved or cleaned (they like their stuff to smell like them), so if you are cleaning or tidying bunny's living space and it upsets him, you can always put him in a different area while you do the necessary.

Screaming ("I'm in agony" or "I'm terrified that my life is in danger"): This rabbit either needs to be taken to a vet right away (if in pain), or needs soothed with soft talking. He should also have a spot that makes him feel safe where he can hide.

Territory droppings ("I must let the world know that this is my space"): When a bun leaves a few turds in a designated spot or all over, this is territory marking and typically stops with neutering/spaying.
https://www.allthingsrabbit.com/bunny-language
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